The IRT is to be blamed. The No. The No. 7 train never intended to stop at Main Street in Flushing. If Interborough Rapid Transit Company hadn’t made plans to extend it then all the amazing korean food in Queens would be as well-known as the dosas from Jackson Heights, Corona’s tamales, and Elmhurst’s som tums.

The end of the Flushing Local Line is only the beginning of the Korean stretch. It continues eastward for five miles, following the Long Island Rail Road tracks.

Then it crosses Northern Boulevard and goes all the way to Nassau County. Murray Hill, Auburndale, and Bayside are home to hundreds of Korean restaurants.

They serve a variety of Korean cuisines, including beef barbecue, blood sausage, wheat noodles in deep steaming bowls, arrowroot noodles with broth chilled with ice crystals, tofu casseroles, live octopus, Korean-Chinese bakeries, beery pubs, studious espresso bars, and chicken fried in a crispy crust of rice flour, and whole chicken with ginseng.

Queens kimchi belt is one of the most underrated, talked about, and loved among the city’s many ethnic-food areas. The only places that can compete for quality cooking and variety are the East Village Japanese clusters and East 40s, or the three Chinese towns. Koreatown, once strong in the West 30,s doesn’t even make it to the top of the scoreboard.

Hooni Kim, the chef at Danji and Hanjan in Manhattan and a frequent walker of Northern Boulevard, stated that Queens is “the closest to authentic Korean food right now.

“ Mr. Kim stated that, unlike the 32nd Street restaurants in Manhattan, “the kitchens actually prepare for Koreans.” While there are many excellent Korean restaurants in Fort Lee, N.J. and some have sister branches in Queens.

However, Mr. Kim believes the flavors along Northern Boulevard taste closer to the ones he experienced on his trip to South Korea.

He said that many Queens restaurants are owned by first-generation Koreans who know the best of Korea.

Language is not a barrier to good food in this area of town for those who don’t know Korean. It is the problem of finding the right place to eat which food that is more difficult. korean food tends to decide what they want to eat first, and then select a restaurant that serves it well.

Menus might not be helpful if you don’t know the house specialty when you arrive. The hub of restaurants near Murray Hill station on Long Island Rail Road is a good place to start. Mapo korean food BBQ is where people who are well-informed would go if they wanted to try marinated short-ribs or kalbi.

Mr. Kim stated, “Unfortunately they have 80 more things on the menu to distract someone who doesn’t know.”

Signs can also be misleading. Han Joo Chik Naeng Myun and BBQ are located next to Mapo. You might think that it is a specialist in cold noodles, naengmyun. Everyone comes here to enjoy barbecued pork belly. Look across the street to find Keum Sung Food, where you can find naengmyun.

 You can ignore the green duck that is on the awning. Sura Chung is around the corner if you’re looking for duck.

I followed the example of the locals. Instead of trying to understand every item on a menu as a restaurant critic would normally do, I chose just a few. I compared them to other versions. I was able to taste all claimants simultaneously, but I had to split my fried chicken safari into two trips.

Below is a list of some of my favorite places in the area, broken down by specialties. Most are located in Murray Hill and Auburndale’s Flushing neighborhood

There is still much to be done. Any version of jajangmyeon (the Chinese-derived noodles with black bean sauce) that I came across, I couldn’t get excited about.

I’m still looking for arguments-ending mandoo or kimbap. This is both a guide for beginners and the first attempt at a straphanger campaign. Let’s finish the Second Avenue subway.

1. Debasaki

33-67 Farrington Street, 35th Avenue, 718-886-6878

Chicken gyoza (stuffed wings).

This cavernous pub is not the right place if your mind starts to fill with images of drumsticks lined up in Rockettes-esque rows. It fries only wings, making it a specialist among Korean food chicken restaurants. While most of the wings are excellent, Debasaki’s stuffed wings are what put it on the map.

They are called chicken gyoza and are made with boned chicken. Inside they’re filled with chopped shrimp, kimchi, and other fillings that you might find in a dumpling. They can be held by their wing tips until they cool enough for you to eat. This decor successfully blends birch tree trunks and Korean pop videos.

2. Mapo Korean BBQ

Glowing charcoal is placed inside a grill that has been carved into tables from cherry-red composite stones. After marinating in an unmistakable flavor, the charcoal is heated up and then the slabs of Black Angus short rib are carefully slashed. The server will use scissors to cut the meat into small squares.

This allows the meat to cook in the heat waves until it turns black. Mapo BBQ’s kalbi is made this way. I don’t know of any charcoal-grilled steak anywhere in New York. Make sure you grill the ribs, even if you’re making lettuce wraps with short-rib lettuce.

3. Han Joo Chik Naeng Myun & BBQ,

Samgyupsal (barbecued pork belly)

Samgyupsal was almost awarded the Queen’s crown for best-barbecued pork belly. This is a place a few miles to the east of Seoul, where the meat is cooked on top of a traditional metal dome.

The fat drips down into delicious kimchi and bean sprouts. You then dip the belly in a wonderful tonkatsu sauce with mysterious ingredients. Han Joo’s heat source is a flat slab made of crystal. The sauce is a standard spicy soybean paste.

The banchan is the best, but so is the belly. It comes in four varieties: thin, unseasoned slices that crisp up; thicker ones that stay meaty; strips that are rubbed in green tea or marinated in red bean paste. It’s the meat that makes all the difference.

4. Keum Sung Food

40-07 149th Place (Roosevelt Avenue), 718-539-4596

Naeng myun (cold noodles).

A Korean hit song describes how it feels to run into an old summertime fling and eat chilled noodles soup. Naeng myun is the dish that inspired the song’s name. It is so cold that the broth shimmers with ice shards.

There are many decisions to be made. Do you prefer noodles made from buckwheat or arrowroot? Arrowroot is a unique texture, very elastic and not too rubbery. These noodles won’t give up on your teeth immediately. Second, do you cut the noodles or leave them uncut?

These amazingly long and thin noodles are easier to eat with a few snips of the scissor, but can also reduce your life expectancy, according to tradition. Arrowroot noodles are all in texture.

The flavor comes from the balanced, clean-tasting beef broth that you can adjust with hot mustard or vinegar.

Cucumbers and Asian pears can be added for crunch and cooling power. Keum Sung’s version can make New York’s summer more bearable. However, it is worth noting that naengmyun in Korea never goes out of season.

5. Matko Barm

150-40 Northern Boulevard (150th St), 718-460-2535

Suebi and Kalguksu (fresh noodles).

There are Korean dishes you must master and others that require you to knit a long, tedious sleeve. Mat Baram’s generous bowls full of steaming noodles soups are the perfect knitting choice. This simple restaurant is decorated with bamboo pipes and black horsehair hats.

The only thing that makes it more interesting is the choice of noodles. Kalguksu is long and thin noodles that can be sipped. Sujebi is made from dough that has been pulled by hand and then cut with a knife into small squares. They are meant to be chewed.

The chicken-ginseng soup is most grandma-like. It has cubes made of carrots and could be mistaken for an American version. However, the broth is milky white from a boiled bone stock and not translucent gold.

Hand-torn noodles with green tea made with ground perilla seeds and topped with anchovies. A few drops of the delicious hot sauce made from Thai chiles, tomatoes, and pineapple will give the mild, nutty flavor a boost.

6. Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong

152-12 Northern Boulevard, Murray Street,718-886-8645

The cartoon mural in front shows Kang Ho-dong, a man dressed up as the Statue of Liberty and holding a raw steak instead of an iPad. South korean food wrestling champion, Kang Ho-dong retired from the ring to become a comedian, host of variety shows, and global barbecue entrepreneur.

His latest Baekjeong was opened in Manhattan last month. Although the banchan are not very expensive, there is a lot of beaten eggs and corn along with grated cheese. The long canals are cooked in fat-rich, charred meats.

The meat is beautifully marbled. But the highlight is the pork collar with sweet soy marinade. It’s almost like kalbi is made of pigs. Although the cut does not require any condiments, such as an interesting proprietary sauce, it comes with some condiments.

7. Bonjuk

152-26 Northern Boulevard (153rd St), 718-939-56868

Juk (savory rice porridge).

Many korean food restaurants in Queens host parties every night, so you’re unlikely to see anyone alone. Bonjuk is the exception. If you’ve been at the party for too long, this is where to go. The dining area is minimalistic and calm, like a teahouse within a spa. One night, a sonata for piano and violin was played softly.

A sign on the wall reads, “Well Being Slow Food.” Juk is the slow food at issue.

It’s usually described as rice porridge. However, porridge sounds like punishment, while juk should taste more like a reward or a consolation prize. Although the flavor of the juk was not fully developed, the ginseng-chicken version tasted like a concerned grandmother who had spent all day looking at it. For those days when you need to be refueled with spicy heat, the octopus kimchi juk is an excellent choice.

8. Geo Si Gi

152-28 Northern Boulevard (153rd St), 718-8888-0001

Kamja tang (spicy pork stew)

The sign in korean food describes the dish almost everyone orders at Geo Si Gi. It’s a braised pork loin dish that is half-submerged in a fiery red broth bubbling on a gas burner. The dish is sometimes called kama Tang, or potato stew. However, a server said that it was actually a “very tender meat stew.” It is very tender, barely holding on to its shaft.

Six kama tangs are available on the menu, each with different spice levels and extras. One go-for-broke version includes raw octopus and shrimp that are cooked in the stew.

The broth is rich in sweetness and has a rich, multi-layered flavor that absorbs into the fat noodles at its bottom.

9. Mad for Chicken

Northern Boulevard, 157-18 (158th Street), 718-321-83818

Mad for Chicken, one of the dozens or so fried-chicken dispensaries located along and near Northern Boulevard, is the most lively. It is a self-described Korean food gastropub with hockey and football, American rock and pop on speakers,

microbrews available on tap, and a menu that looks like TGI Fridays if it was taken over by a young Korean food hipster. Mad for Chicken is available if you have a midnight craving to eat poutine with corn.

It has my favorite chicken, a golden crust that hovers just above its flesh, and a spicy garlic glaze that is a bit more savory than some of the others.

10. Bada Story

161-23 Crocheron Avenue (162nd St.),718-321-9555

Bad Story’s raw fluke platters were frosted with dry-ice fog, which may hint at the confusion that awaits anyone who attempts to approach the restaurant’s specialty, we. Korea had already established its own opinions about raw seafood by the time the Japanese arrived with their unique take.

Melting tenderness is prized more than crunch, chew, and snap.

The sea creature can be dipped in soy sauce lightly, or it can be given a barrage of fermented soybean paste and salted sesame oils, vinegared chili paste, chopped jalapenos, and garlic.

Bada Story feasts (bring a crowd!) might begin with a delicious meal of fried fish fingers and a great seafood pancake. Next, you’ll be treated to an array of marine life that isn’t on your local sushi bar’s sashimi menu: sea squirts that have wrinkled orange skin and sea cucumbers that unfurl like streamers

when you take down your chopsticks; and sea worms that look almost like veins but taste good and are chewy but they are very little but still have plenty of chewiness In a misty swirl, a whole Korean food fluke arrives.

It was just a few moments ago, lying at the bottom of a pool near the kitchen. To keep them from drying out, the slices are placed on frosty ceramic cups. The fins at the edge of each platter are covered with lightly crunchy hard-working muscles.

11. Bangane

718-762-2799, 165-19 Northern Boulevard (165th Street),718-762-2499

Banana has posters of goats hanging on their walls. They are goats with rakishly-wavy black hair and an ambiguous twinkle in their eyes. The twinkle could be interpreted as “follow me and discover the secret of my goatish vitality” or “I want your belt.” With goats, it’s difficult to know.

Banane patrons, however, are possessed of goatish energy. A server explained that Korean people eat it when their desire to have babies. He brought out a steamer basket with garlic chives and boiled enough goat to fill a maternity unit. The meat is dark and tender, but mild and lean.

This may not result in an immediate procreative mood. The more you consume it, the more energy it gives you to eat and dunk in chile paste with crunchy perilla seeds.

This is a good thing because once you’ve finished with your goat, the remaining goat along with the chile paste and chives are added to a pot that’s placed over the gas burner.

The broth from the kitchen is added and the second course, black-goat soup, is ready in no time. This also has energy, as well as the mind-focusing power and hot chiles of green perilla leaves.

A third course is goat fried rice, which is stirred into the soup as it boils. It is the first two main dishes that will send you off into the night with an ambiguous twinkle of your eyes.

12. To Soc Chon

45-30 Bell Boulevard, Bayside (45th Road), 347-408-4584

A young couple was having dinner at this vibrant, colorful 24-hour restaurant in the winter. They had also brought their children along, who were ready to go to bed in flannel pajamas.

They would have gone to a Waffle House in another area. However, no Waffle House offers Soondae, the springy sausage that draws people to To Soc Chon.

The sausages at To Soc Chon are lighter than those at Byeoncheon (a few miles to the west), which are denser and blood-forward. To Soc Chon’s pork casings are mostly filled with vermicelli.

The blood then adds its rich, brooding seasoning. A plate of vermicelli can be eaten as a snack, with chile salt added to the pieces. The main course is an innards soup.

The soup looks milky and mysterious with bits of pig ears, tongues and soondae floating to the surface. Stir in the red chile paste, garlic chives and mashed jalapenos.

Finally, you can add chile salt. This cloudy bowl of bones, blood, and innards is powerful enough to prevent any illness, even anemia.

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